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Contents
Coaching trip
to Liverpool , Coventry , English scenery , 'The Rocket' , The two Stephensons , Opening of the
railway , William Fawcett , Birkenhead , Walk back to London , Patricroft , Manchester , Edward Tootal , Sharp, Roberts and
Co. , Manchester industry , Coalbrookdale , The Black Country , Dudley Castle , Wren's Nest Hill , Birmingham , Boulton and Watt , William Murdoch , John Drain , Kenilworth , Warwick , Oxford , Windsor , London ,
IN the autumn of 1830
Mr. Maudslay went to Berlin for the purpose of superintending the
erection of machinery at the Royal Mint there. He intended to be
absent from London for about a month; and he kindly permitted me
to take my holiday during that period.
I had been greatly
interested by the descriptions in the newspapers of the
locomotive competition at Rainhill, near Liverpool. I was,
therefore, exceedingly anxious to see Stephenson's
"Rocket," the engine that had won the prize. Taking
with me letters of introduction from Mr. Maudslay to persons of
influence at Liverpool, I left London for the north on the
afternoon of Saturday the 9th of September 1830. I took my place
on the outside of the Liverpool coach, which set out from
"The Swan with Two Necks, " in Lad Lane, City, one of
the most celebrated coach-offices in those days
The first part of the
journey to Liverpool was very dismal. The night was wet. The rain
came pouring down, and no sort of wrappings could keep it out.
The outside passengers became thoroughly soaked. On we went,
however, as fast as four horses could carry us. Next morning we
reached Coventry, when the clouds cleared away, and the sun at
last burst forth. I could now enjoy this charming part of old
England. Although I had only a hasty glimpse in passing of the
quaint streets and ancient buildings of the town I was perfectly
delighted with the specimens of ancient domestic architecture
which I saw. At that time Coventry was quite a museum of that
interesting class of buildings. The greater part of them have
since been swept away in the so-called improvement of modern
builders, none of whose works can ever so attract an artistic
eye.
During the rest of
the day the journey was delightful. Though the inside passengers
had had the best of it during the night, the outside passengers
had the best of it now. To go scampering across the country on
the top of the coach, passing old villages, gentlemen's parks,
under old trees, along hedges tinged with autumn tints, up hill
and down dale, sometimes getting off the coach to lighten the
load, and walking along through the fields by a short cut to meet
it farther on; all this was most enjoyable. It gave me a new
interest in the happier aspects of English scenery, and of rural
and domestic life in the pretty old-fashioned farm buildings that
we passed on our way. Indeed, there was everything to delight the
eye of the lover of the picturesque during the course of that
bright autumnal day.
The coach reached
Liverpool on Sunday night. I took up my quarters at a commercial
inn in Dale Street, where I found every comfort which I desired
at moderate charges. Next morning, without loss of time, I made
my way to the then terminus of the Liverpool and Manchester
Railway; and there, for the first time, I saw the famous
"Rocket" The interest with which I beheld this
distinguished and celebrated engine was much enhanced by seeing
it make several short trial trips under the personal management
of George Stephenson, who acted as engineman, while his son
Robert acted as stoker. During their trips of four or five miles
along the line the "Rocket" attained the speed of
thirty miles an hour -- a speed then thought almost incredible !
It was to me a most memorable and interesting sight, especially
to see the father and son so appropriately engaged in working the
engine that was to effect so great a change in the communications
of the civilised world. I spent the entire day in watching the
trial trips, in examining the railway works, and such portions of
of their details as I could obtain access to. About mid-day the
"Rocket" was at rest for about an hour near where I
stood; and I eagerly availed myself of the opportunity of making
a careful sketch of the engine, which I still preserve.
The line was opened
on the 15th of September, when the famous "Rocket" led
the way in conducting the first train of passengers from
Liverpool to Manchester. There were present on that occasion
thousands of spectators , many of whom had come from distant
parts of the kingdom to witness this greatest of all events in
the history of railway locomotion.
During my stay in
Liverpool I visited the vast range of magnificent docks which
extend along the north bank of the Mersey, all of which were
crowded with noble merchant ships, some taking in cargoes of
British manufactures, and others discharging immense stores of
cotton, sugar, tobacco, and foreign produce. The sight was most
interesting, and gave me an impressive idea of the mighty
functions of a manufacturing nation -- energy and intelligence,
working through machinery, increasing the value of raw materials
and enabling them to be transported for use to all parts of the
civilised world.
Mr. Maudslay having
given me a letter of introduction to his old friend William
Fawcett, head of the firm of Fawcett, Preston, and Company,
engineers, I went over their factory. They were engaged in
producing sugar mills for the West Indies, and also in
manufacturing the steam-engines for working them. The firm had
acquired great reputation for their workmanship; and their shops
were crowded with excellent specimens of their skill. Everything
was in good order; their assortment of machine tools was
admirable. Mr. Fawcett, who accompanied me, was full in his
praises of my master, whom he regarded as the greatest pioneer in
the substitution of the unerring accuracy of machine tools for
the often untrustworthy results of mere manual labour.
I cannot resist
referring to the personal appearance and manner of this excellent
gentleman, William Fawcett. His peculiar courteous manner, both
in speech and action, reminded me of the "grand old
Style" Which I had observed in some of my father's oldest
noble employers, and the representations given of them by some of
our best actors. There was also a dignified kindliness about his
manner that was quite peculiar to himself; and when he conducted
me through his busy workshops, the courtly yet kindly manner in
which he addressed his various foremen and others, was especially
cheering. When I first presented my letter of introduction from
Henry Maudslay, he was sitting at a beautiful inlaid escritoire
table with his letters arrayed before him in the most neat and
perfect order. The writing table stood on a small Turkey carpet
apart from the clerks' desks in the room, but so near to them
that he could readily communicate with them. His neat
old-fashioned style of dress quite harmonised with his advanced
age, and the kindly yet dignified grace of his manner left a
lasting impression on me as a most interesting specimen of
"the fine old English gentleman, quite of the olden
time."
I spent another day
in crossing the Mersey to Birkenhead -- then a very small
collection of buildings -- wandered about the neighbourhood. I
had my sketch-book with me, and made a drawing of Liverpool from
the other side of the river. Close to Birkenhead were some
excellent bits of scenery, old and picturesque farmhouses,
overshadowed with venerable oaks, with juttings-out of the New
Red Sandstone rocks, covered with heather, furze, and broom, with
pools of water edged with all manner of effective water plants.
They formed capital subjects for the artistic pencil, especially
when distant peeps of the Welsh hills came into the prospect. I
made several sketches, and they kept company with my graphic
memoranda of architectural and mechanical objects. I may here
mention that on my return to London I showed them to my brother
Patrick, and some of them so much met his fancy that he borrowed
my sketch-book and painted some pictures from them, which at this
day are hanging on the walls of some of his admirers.
With the desire of
seeing as much as possible of all that was interesting in the
mechanical, architectural and picturesque line, on my return
journey to London, I determined to walk, halting here and there
by the way. The season of the year and the state of the weather
were favourable for my purpose. I accordingly commenced my
pedestrian tour on Saturday morning, the 17th September. I set
out for Manchester. It was a long but pleasant walk. I well
remember, when nearing Manchester, that I sat down to rest for a
time on Patricroft Bridge. I was attracted by the rural aspect of
the country, and the antique cottages of the neighbourhood. The
Bridgewater Canal lay before me, and as I was told that it was
the first mile of the waterway that the great Duke had made, it
became quite classic ground in my eyes. I little thought at the
time that I was so close to a piece of ground that should
afterwards become my own, and where I should for twenty years
carry on the most active and interesting business of my life.
I reached Manchester
at seven in the evening, and took up my quarters at the King's
Arms Inn, Deansgate. Next day was Sunday. I attended service in
the Cathedral, then called the Old Church. I was much interested
by the service, as well as by the architecture of the building.
Some of the details were well worthy of attention, being very
original, and yet the whole was not of the best period of Gothic
architecture. Some of the old buildings about the Cathedral were
very interesting. They were of a most quaint character, yet bold
and effective. Much finely carved oak timber work was introduced
into them; and on the whole they gave a very striking
illustration of the style of domestic architecture which
prevailed in England some three or four centuries ago.
On the following day
I called upon Mr. Edward Tootal, of York Street. He was a
well-known man in Manchester.
I had the happiness
of meeting him in London a few months before. He then kindly
invited me to call upon him should I ever visit Manchester, when
he would endeavour to obtain for me sight of some of the most
remarkable manufacturing establishments. Mr. Tootal was as good
as his word. He received me most cordially, and at once proceeded
to take me to the extensive machine factory of Messrs. Sharp,
Roberts, and Co. I found to my delight that a considerable
portion of the establishment was devoted to the production of
machine tools, a department of mechanical business then rising
into the highest importance. Mr. Roberts, an admirable mechanic
as well as inventor, had derived many of his ideas on the subject
while working with Mr. Maudslay in London, and he had carried
them out with many additions and improvements of his own
contrivance. Indeed, Roberts was one of the most capable men of
his time, and is entitled to be regarded as one of the true
pioneers of modern mechanical mechanism.
Through the kindness of
Mr. Tootal I had also the opportunity of visiting and inspecting
some of the most extensive cotton mills in Manchester. I was
greatly pleased with the beautiful contrivances displayed in the
machinery. They were perfect examples of the highest order of
ingenuity, combined with that kind of common-sense which casts
aside all mere traditional forms and arrangements of parts, such
as do not essentially contribute to the efficiency of the machine
in the performance of its special and required purpose. I found
much to admire in the design as well as in the execution of the
details of the machines.
The arrangement and
management of the manufactories were admirable. The whole of the
buildings, howsoever extensive and apparently complicated, worked
like one grand and perfectly constructed machine.
I was also much
impressed by the keen interest which the proprietors of these
vast establishments took in the minute details of their
machinery, as well as by their intelligent and practical
acquaintance with the technical minutiae of their business.
Although many of them were men of fortune, they continued to take
as deep an interest in such matters as if they were beginning
life and had their fortunes still to make. Their chief ambition
was to be at the head of a thoroughly well-managed and prosperous
establishment. No detail, be it ever so small, was beneath their
care and attention. To a young man like myself, then about to
enter upon a similar career of industry, these lessons were very
important. They were encouraging examples of carefully thought
out designs, carried into admirable results by close attention to
details, ever watchful carefulness, and indomitable perseverance.
I brooded over these circumstances, They filled my mind with
hope. They encouraged me to go on in the path which I had
selected; and I believed that at some time or other I might be
enabled to imitate the examples of zeal and industry which I had
witnessed during my stay in Manchester. It was then that I
bethought me of settling down in this busy neighbourhood; and as
I plodded my way back to London this thought continually occupied
me. It took root in my mind and grew, and at length the idea
became a reality.
I did not take the
shortest route on my return journey to London. I desired to pass
through the most interesting and picturesque places without
unduly diverging from the right direction. I wished to see the
venerable buildings and cathedrals of the olden time, as well as
the engineering establishments of the new. Notwithstanding my
love for mechanics I still retained a spice of the antiquarian
feeling. It enabled me to look back to the remote past, into the
material records of man's efforts hundreds of years ago, and
contrast them with the modern progress of arts and sciences. I
was especially interested in the architecture of bygone ages; but
here, alas! arts and sciences have done nothing. Modern Gothic
architecture is merely an imitation of the old, and often a very
bad imitation. Even ancient domestic architecture is much
superior to the modern. We can now only imitate it; and often
spoil when imitating.
I left Manchester and
turned my steps in the direction of Coalbrookdale. I passed
through a highly picturesque country, in which I enjoyed the
sight of many old timber houses, most attractive subjects for my
pencil. My route lay through Whitchurch, Wem, and Wellington;
then past the Wrekin to Coalbrookdale. Before arriving there I
saw the first iron bridge constructed in England, an object of
historical interest in that class of structures. It was because
of the superb quality of the castings produced at Coalbrookdale
that the ironmasters there were able to accomplish the building
of a bridge of that material, which before had baffled all
projectors both at home and abroad
I possessed a letter
of introduction to the manager, and was received by him most
cordially. He permitted me to examine the works. I was greatly
interested at the sight of the processes of casting. Many
beautiful objects were turned out for architectural , domestic,
and other purposes. I saw nothing particularly novel, however, in
the methods and processes of moulding and casting.
The excellence of the
work depended for the most part upon the great care and skill
exercised by the workmen of the foundry. They seemed to vie with
each other in turning out the best castings, and their models or
patterns were made with the utmost care. I was particularly
impressed with the cheerful zeal and activity of the workmen and
foremen of this justly celebrated establishment.
On leaving
Coalbrookdale I trudged my way towards Wolverhampton. I rested at
Shiffnal for the night. Next day I was in the middle of the Black
Country. I had no letters of introduction to employers in
Wolverhampton; so that, without stopping there, I proceeded at
once to Dudley. The Black Country is anything but picturesque.
The earth seems to have been turned inside out. Its entrails are
strewn about; nearly the entire surface of the ground is covered
with cinder-heaps and mounds of scoriae. The coal which has been
drawn from below ground is blazing on the surface. The district
is crowded with iron furnaces, puddling furnaces, and coal-pit
engine furnaces. By day and by night the country is glowing with
fire, and the smoke of the ironworks hovers over it. There is a
rumbling and clanking of iron forges and rolling mills. Workmen
covered with smut, and with fierce white eyes, are seen moving
about amongst the glowing iron and the dull thud of
forge-hammers. Amidst these flaming, smoky, clanging works , I
beheld the remains of what had once been happy farmhouses, now
ruined and deserted. The ground underneath them had sunk by the
working out of the coal, and they were falling to pieces. They
had in former times been surrounded by clumps of trees; but only
the skeletons of them remained, dead, black, and leafless. The
grass had been parched and killed by the vapours of sulphurous
acid thrown out by the chimneys; and every herbaceous object was
of a ghastly gray -- the emblem of vegetable death in its saddest
aspect. Vulcan had driven out Ceres. In some places I heard a
sort of chirruping sound, as of some forlorn bird haunting the
ruins of the old farmsteads. But no! the chirrup was a vile
delusion. It proceeded from the shrill creaking of the
coal-winding chains, which were placed in small tunnels beneath
the hedgeless road.
I went into some of the
forges to see the workmen at their labours. There was no need of
introduction; the works were open to all, for they were
unsurrounded by walls. I saw the white-hot iron run out from the
furnace; I saw it spun, as it were, into bars and iron ribbands,
with an ease and rapidity which seemed marvellous. There were
also the ponderous hammers and clanking rolling-mills. I wandered
from one to another without restraint. I lingered among the blast
furnaces, seeing the flood of molten iron run out from time to
time, and remained there until it was late. When it became dark
the scene was still more impressive. The workmen within seemed to
be running about amidst the flames as in a pandemonium; while
around and outside the horizon was a glowing belt of fire, making
even the stars look pale and feeble. At last I came away with
reluctance, and made my way towards Dudley. I reached the town at
a late hour. I was exhausted in mind and body, yet the day had
been most interesting and exciting . A sound sleep refreshed me,
and I was up in the morning early, to recommence my journey of
inquiry,
I made my way to the
impressive ruins of Dudley Castle, the remnant of a very ancient
stronghold, originally built by Dud, the Saxon. The castle is
situated on a finely wooded hill; it is so extensive that it more
resembles the ruins of a town than of a single building. You
enter through a treble gateway, and see the remnants of the moat,
the court, and the keep. Here are the central hall, the guard,
rooms, and the chapel. It must have been a magnificent structure.
In the Midlands it was known as the "Castle of the
Woods" Now it is abandoned by its owners, and surrounded by
the Black Country. It is undermined by collieries, and even
penetrated by a canal. The castle walls sometimes tremble when a
blast occurs in the bowels of the mountain beneath. The town of
Dudley lies quite close to the castle, and was doubtless
protected by it in ancient times.
The architectural
remains are of various degrees of antiquity, and are well worthy
of study, as embodying the successive periods which they
represent. Their melancholy grandeur is rendered all the more
impressive by the coal and iron works with which they are
surrounded -- the olden type of buildings confronting the modern.
The venerable trees struggle for existence under the destroying
influence of sulphurous acid; while the grass is withered and the
vegetation everywhere blighted. I sat down on an elevated part of
the ruins, and looked down upon the extensive district, with its
roaring and blazing furnaces, the smoke of which blackened the
country as far as the eye could reach; and as I watched the
decaying trees I thought of the price we had to pay for our
vaunted supremacy in the manufacture of iron. We may fill our
purses, but we pay a heavy price for it in the loss of
picturesqueness and beauty. I left the castle with reluctance, and proceeded to
inspect the limestone quarries in the neighbourhood. The
limestone has long been worked out from underneath the castle;
but not far from it is Wren's Nest Hill, a mountain of limestone.
The wrens have left, but the quarries are there. The walk to the
hill is along green lanes and over quiet fields. I entered one of
the quarries opened out in the sloping precipice, and penetrated
as far as the glimmer of sunlight enabled me to see my way. But
the sound of the dripping of water from the root of the cave
warned me that I was approaching some deep pool, into which a
false step might plunge me. I therefore kept within the light of
day. An occasional ray of the sun lit up the enormous rock
pillars which the quarrymen had left to support the roof. It was
a most impressive sight.
Having emerged from
the subterranean cave, I proceeded on my way to Birmingham. I
reached the town in the evening, and found most comfortable
quarters. On the following day I visited some of the factories
where processes were carried on in connection with the Birmingham
trade. I saw the mills where sheet brass and copper were rolled
for the purpose of being plated with silver. There was nothing in
these processes of novel interest, though I picked up many
practical hints. I could not fail to be attracted by the
dexterous and rapid manipulation of the work in hand, even by
boys and girls whose quick sight and nimble fingers were educated
to a high degree of perfection. I could have spent a month
profitably among the vast variety of small traders in metal, of
which Birmingham is the headquarters. Even in what is called
"the toy trade," I found a vast amount of skill
displayed in the production of goldsmith work, in earrings,
brooches, gold chains, rings, beads, and glass eyes for stuffed
birds, dolls, and men.
I was especially
attracted by Soho, once the famous manufacturing establishment of
Boulton and Watt. Although this was not the birthplace[note:
The birthplace of the condensing engine of Watt was the workshop
in the Glasgow University, where he first contrived and used a separate
condenser -- the true and vital element in Watt's invention. The
condenser afterwards attained its true effective manhood at Soho
The Newcomen engine was in fact a condensing engine, but as the
condensation was effected inside the steam cylinder it was a very
costly source of power in respect to steam. Watt's happy idea of
condensing in a separate vessel removed the defect. This was
first done in his experimental engine in the Glasgow University
workshop, and before he had made the one at Kinniel for Dr.
Roebuck.]
of the condensing
steam-engine it was the place where it attained its full manhood
of efficiency, and became the source and origin of English
manufacturing power. Watt's engine has had a greater influence on
the productive arts of mankind than any other that can be named.
Boulton also was a thorough man of business, without whom,
perhaps, Watt could never have made his way against the world, or
perfected his magnificent invention. Not less interesting to my
mind was the memory of that incomparable mechanic, William Murdoch, a man of
indomitable energy, and Watt's right-hand man in the highest
practical sense. Murdoch was the inventor of the first model
locomotive, and the inventor of gas for lighting purposes; and
yet he always kept himself in the background, for he was
excessively modest. He was happiest when he could best promote
the welfare of the great house of Boulton and Watt. Indeed he was
a man whose memory ought to be held in the highest regard by all
true engineers and mechanics.
The sight which I
obtained of the vast series of workshops of this celebrated
establishment -- filled with evidences of the mechanical genius
of these master minds -- made me feel that I was indeed on
classic ground in regard to everything connected with
steam-engine machinery. Some of the engines designed by Watt --
the prototypes of the powerful condensing engines of the present
day -- were still performing their daily quota of work. There was
"Old Bess," a sort of experimental engine, upon which
Watt had tried many adaptations and alterations, for the purpose
of suiting it for pumping water from coal mines. There was also
the engine with the sun-and-planet motion, an invention of
William Murdoch's. Both of these engines were still at work.
I went through the
workshops, where I was specially interested by seeing the action
of the machine tools. There I observed Murdoch's admirable system
of transmitting power from one central engine to other small vacuum
engines attached to the individual machines they were set to
work. The power was communicated by pipes led from the central
air or exhaust pump to small vacuum or atmospheric engines
devoted to the driving of each separate machine, thus doing away
with all shafting and leather belts, the required speed being
kept up or modified at pleasure without in any way interfering
with the other machines. - This vacuum method of
transmitting power dates from the time of Papin; but until it
received the masterly touch of Murdoch it remained a dead
contrivance for more than a century.
I concluded my visits
to the workshops of Birmingham by calling upon a little known but
very ingenious man, whose work I had seen before I left
Edinburgh, in a beautifully constructed foot turning-lathe made
by John Drain. I was so much impressed with the exquisite design,
execution, and completeness of the lathe, that I made it one of
my chief objects to find out John Drain's workshop. It was with
some difficulty that I found him. He was little known in
Birmingham. His workshops were very small; they consisted of only
one or two rooms. His exquisite lathes were not much in demand.
They found their way chiefly to distant parts of the country,
where they were highly esteemed.
I found that he had
some exquisitely finished lathes completed and in hand for
engraving the steel plates for printing bank notes. They were
provided with the means of producing such intricate ornamental
patterns as to defy the utmost skill of the forger. Perkins had
done a good deal in the same way; but Drain's exquisite mechanism
enabled his engraving lathes to surpass anything that had before
been attempted in the same line. I believe that Drain's earnest
attention to his work, in which he had little or no assistance,
undermined his health, and arrested the career of one who, had he
lived, would have attained the highest position in his
profession. I shall never forget the rare treat which his fine
mechanism afforded me. Its prominent quality was absolute truth
and accuracy in every part.
Having now had enough
of the Black Country and of Birmingham workshops, I proceeded
towards London. There were no more manufacturing districts to be
visited. Everything now was to be green lanes, majestic trees,
old mansions, venerable castles, and picturesque scenery. There
is no way of seeing a country properly except on foot. By railway
you whiz past and see nothing. Even by coach the best parts of
the scenery are unseen. "Shank's naig" is the best of
all methods, provided you have time. I had still some days to
spare before the conclusion of my holiday. I therefore desired to
see some of the beautiful scenery and objects of antiquarian
interest before returning to work.
I made my way across
country to Kenilworth. The weather was fine, and the walk was
perfect. The wayside was bordered by grassy sward. Wide and
irregular margins extended on each side of the road, and noble
trees and untrinnned hedges, in their glowing autumnal tint,
extended far and wide. Everything was in the most gloriously
neglected and therefore highly picturesque condition. Here and
there old farmhouses and labourers' cottages peeped up from
amidst the trees and hedges -- worthy of the landscape painter's
highest skill.
I reached Kenilworth
about half an hour before sunset. I made my way direct to the
castle, glorious in its decay. The fine mellow glow of the
setting sun lit up the grand and extensive ruins. The massive
Norman keep stood up with melancholy dignity, and attracted my
attention more than any other part of the ruined building. To me
there is an impressiveness in the simple massive dignity of the
Norman castles and cathedrals, which no other buildings possess.
There is an expression of terrible earnestness about them. The
last look I had of the Norman keep was grand. The elevated part
was richly tinted with the last glow of the setting sun, while
the outline of the buildings beneath was shaded by a dark purply
gray. It was indeed a sight never to be forgotten. I waited until
the sun had descended beneath the horizon, still leaving its
glimmer of pink and crimson and gray, and then I betook me to the
little inn in the village, where I obtained comfortable quarters
for the night. I visited the ruins again in the morning. Although
the glory of the previous evening had departed, I was much
interested in observing the various styles of architecture
adopted in different parts of the buildings -- some old, some
comparatively new. I found the older more grand and massive, and
the newer, of the sixteenth century, wanting in dignity of
design, and the workmanship very inferior. The reign of Shoddy
had already begun before Cromwell laid the castle in ruins.
In the course of the
day I proceeded to Warwick. I passed along the same delightful
grass-bordered roads, shaded by noble trees. I reached the grand
old town, with its antique buildings and its noble castle -- so
famous in English history. Leaving the place with reluctance, I
left it late in the afternoon to trudge on to Oxford. But soon
after I started the rain began to fall. It was the first
interruption to my walking journey which I had encountered during
my three weeks' absence from London. As it appeared from the dark
clouds overhead that a wet night had set in, I took shelter in a
wayside inn at a place called Steeple Aston. My clothes were
dripping wet; and after a glass of very hot rum and water I went
to bed, and had a sound sleep. Next morning it was fair and
bright. After a substantial homely breakfast I set out again.
Nature was refreshed by the steady rain of the previous night,
and the day was beautiful. I reached Deddington and stayed there
for the night, and early next morning I set out for Oxford.
I was greatly excited
by the first sight I had of the crowd of towers and spires of
that learned and illustrious city. Nor were my expectations at
all disappointed by a nearer approach to the colleges of Oxford.
After a most interesting visit to the best of the buildings, I
took in a, fair idea of the admirable details of this noble city,
and left in the afternoon of next day. I visited, on my way to
Thame, the old church of Iffley. I was attracted to it by the
fine old Norman work it contains, which I found most quaint and
picturesque.
I slept at Thame for
the night, and next day walked to Windsor. I arrived there at
sunset, and had a fine view of the exterior of the castle and the
surrounding buildings. I was, however, much disappointed on
examining the architectural details. In sight of the noble trees
about the castle, and the magnificent prospect from the terrace,
I saw much that tended to make up for the disgust I felt at the
way in which all that was so appropriate and characteristic in so
historic a place as Windsor Castle should have been tampered with
and rubbed out by the wretched conceit of the worst architects of
our worst architectural period.
I left Windsor next
morning, and walked direct for London. My time was up, but not my
money. I had taken eight sovereigns on setting out from London to
Liverpool by coach, and I brought one sovereign back with me.
Rather than break into it I walked all the way from Windsor to
London without halting for refreshment my entire expenditure
during my three weeks' journey was thus seven pounds.
When I look back upon
that tour, I feel that I was amply rewarded. It was throughout
delightful and instructive. The remembrance of it is as clear in
my mind now as if I had performed the journey last year instead
of fifty years ago. There are thousands of details that pass
before my mind's eye that would take a volume to enunerate. I
brought back a book full of sketches; for graphic memoranda are
much better fitted than written words to bring up a host of
pleasant recollections and associations. I came back refreshed
for work, and possessed by an anxious desire to press forward in
the career of industry which I had set before me to accomplish.
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